Christmas in Killarney

Brief rant: Rick Steves has no soul. His guide book rags on Killarney and declares Kenmare the place to be. The Rawls sisters tend to disagree. The Road to Killarney As we packed up our rental car at Ashford Castle, I asked Meagan, why she thought everyone got this huge grin on their face when they asked where we were headed to next and we answered "Killarney". Did they know something we didn't? Yes. As we approached Limerick, we had the fun chance to drive under the Shannon River. It was anticlimactic with just a long tunnel, but I did scream "I feel the need for speed!!" when we started down through the lighted tunnel (meagan nervously laughed). But as we came out through the other side and the road narrowed to the one lane we've come to love, we made our way through the winding hillside that lead us to the foothills of larger mountains than we're used to (not exactly tall enough to be snowcapped but taller than any we see in the midwest). As we drove the pastures grew greener, the sheep seemed to multiply and the blue sky lighted ahead of us-a welcome change from the rain we had in Galway. As we drove up through the first small mountain, our eyes grew bigger and our mouths dropped in awe. The sunlight danced through the clouds and glittered as it hit the thatched roofs of the houses. The ribbons of sunshine that broke through the white puffy clouds highlighted parts of the countryside as if to say, 'look over here'. Never had we expected such beautiful scenery. We knew why the people from the castle smiled. This place was magical. We wound through the lane with tall rock walls and made our way though the little villages like Adare-which we made note of to visit on our way back to Limerick on Tuesday. We most certainly will drag our feet when we have to leave this place. We arrived in Killarney to the Christmas music of the Pogues. They seem to really really like the Pogues. God bless!

Our Trod on the Old Sod

where to start...these past few days have been unbelievably fulfulling. We've learned the city where our ancestors came from - Westport, County Mayo. Apparently there are loads of McGrails. or rather, McGreal's. We visited the shrine of Knock. There was such a peace there. The little church reminded me of the churches on the little island by Quebec, Canada. I loved the simplicity of atmosphere. We happened to walk into the site of the shrine which is a chapel just as Mass was starting. There is a museum there with some items from those who witnessed the apparition, etc. but it cost a bit to get in so we decided to spend the money on a book about the shrine and some other souvenirs...ha surprised? We visited a grocery store in Ballynrow and it was really fun to see all the different foods and things. It is especially fun being Christmastime. There are always christmas trees and lights everywhere and Christmas music playing. They decorated the castle for Christmas. The first thing you see when you enter the castle, and anywhere in Ireland, is a nativity scene. It feels like no other place on earth, like one big welcoming home. It's hard to describe the feeling oof not having to be on your toes or feeling a bit out of place. It's like no place I've ever been before. Breakfast at the castle has been unbelievable. Have we mentioned that there are chandiliers everywhere? after all its a castle..but there's one every place you turn. And the food is fabulous! Making the drive down to Killarney this early afternoon - hope the rains hold off but we'll take it as it has been sunny all the time we've been in Ireland so far.

Shh... it might hear you

Today began with a happy start. We weren't quite certain that our shower would have warm water at al but we did! And plenty of it! Maura  the b&b owner had a breakfast ready for us on the prettiest china and Waterford crystal. After asking what we had planned for the day was not satisfied with our answer so she set our plans: she would take us to her friend's castles down the road not more than 5 miles Away in claregalway where he was an enthusiaist for Irish culture and history and had bought the ruins and was determined to authentically reproduce a working medieval castle. 'Um.. Okay. We agreed quite excitedly. I drove and taking Maura's directions (who was in shotgun) turn by turn nearly ran right into the Garda car- aka Police. She loved that! Meagan later said I she had the chance, Maura would have loved the chance to talk her way out of that one! We drove on and arrived at the castle dating back to the 1500's. She had t enter a code to the wrought iron gate and it was the most magical place I'd ever been- with authentic everything- the passion for history was very apparent. Maura took us all the way up to the roof. After hours of touring the castle and houses surrounding it we left for Galway. Maura decided to take us us to lunch at Kai and we gladly accepted. After a wonderful conversation on whether to keep her b&b a b&b or hangs it to a 'let' we convinced her that she would miss the inteesting people and interaction of he b&b so I think she will continue with that. She took us on us on A tour of Galway. With much regret we parted our new friend - more like long lost aunt - with promises to return. And set off for the long narrow road to Cong and Ashford Castle. Our guardian angels guided the way as we snuck along the winding narrow country road at dusk. We arrived at Ashford Castle's enterance with great tired relief . The impressive gateway dating back to 1228 felt like a warm Irish welcome as we wound our way through what seemed like an enchanted forest and then happened upon the beautiful golf course which we asked about and can play on fo free! We were met by a lovely man named Paul who took us right up to our room to get settled. Thee was a wondeeful welcome gift bag from Regina and Niall. Sitting in the drawing room as an Irishman play piano and Meagan writes postcards and candles glow Afainst the gorgeous dark woodwork. God bless!

Holy Smokes That's Good

Arrived at 6:45am (1am Chicago time) in Shannon. After an uneventful plane ride into Newark riddled with delays, we considered ourselves the lucky ones as we strolled off one plane, across the terminal hall and onto our connecting flight to Shannon, one of the last passengers to board. With a plane full of what seemed to be all relatives from the Keigher Reunion, we battled our way to the back of the plane and fought to get our carryon's in the overheads. Was a bit disappointed that it was only until after we were collecting our luggage, did an old Irishman offer to help us. The Irish are losing their charm, I thought, a bit disappointed. I would soon regain my faith as we arrived at the car hire (rental car) desk and the middle-aged gentleman offered to warm up the car for us as it was at 0 degrees (32 out) and would we like to get some coffee while we waited for the car to warm while he scraped off the ice. God bless the Irish - my faith has been restored! ha I can officially and proudly say that we have mastered and slayed the forbidden roundabouts that had foiled many our relatives trips. Nightmares had been retold day after day leading up to our departure, with warnings of the formidable beasts that refused to go down with a fight. Well this auto monster had met his match with these two quick thinking, street smart sisters from the states! Ok, maybe I've exaggerated a bit. Its different for sure, manageable yes, impossible, no. But mentally exhausting after two hours on the road. We drove immediately through the sunrise to the Cliffs of Moher. God blessed the Irish with freckles, quick wit and gorgeous scenery. We actually zipped right by the car park for the Cliffs of Moher, partly because I was a bit caught up in how I had mastered the left side of the road by then. Only one other crazy soul was out staring at the gorgeous green cliffs and that was a gal from San Francisco. We never caught her name, but we were glad to have someone take a picture of the two of us and she was equally glad to have a picture of herself. We laughed the whole time we gawked at the cliffs-they truly are a sight to experience. And we were on our way around noon. The roads were a bit crowded, but we found safety behind the big rig towing a tractor for several km. It was a blessing because it afforded us a bit of room as the big rig is much more intimidating to oncoming traffic than Meagan's scowl and fist. At a stop sign, the gentleman driving the truck gave us a friendly wave to signal it was ok to turn (definitally NOT something you'd see in Chicago) and we were almost to Galway. The whole way we just kept saying how beautiful it is here. We arrived in Galway at the old welcoming gates of the Nile Lodge B&B on lower Salthill Road. Weary and tired from the excitement of our travels, we rung the bell and a pretty woman in a long sweater dress opened the door with a smile. Maura, who runs the B&B welcomed us immediately--asking us to sit a while at the fire - very welcome as it is freezing here (that damp cold hangs in the air and cuts through your clothes) *which helped us immediately decide an Irish sweater is our souvenir* and we sat dazed by the fire as Maura finished up our room. We were the only guests she, and the rest of Ireland it seems, was expecting, and she was happy to let us have our pick of the rooms. We, of course, chose the one with the enormous bay window overlooking the formal gardens. After a short nap, we got up out of our cozy bed and ventured out to the hall. We asked Maura's advice on where to shop and grab a bite to eat. She suggest O'Maille's for authentic Irish sweaters and Rouge for dinner. She also said The Quey's was the best spot for music in the evening. We ventured out into the cold and not without a good laugh. We approached the brass gate at the entrance of the drive to the house and Meagan crawled through the large hole in it. But I decided to open the gate.ha We made our way through the beautiful little town of Galway which is seriously adorable. Kilkenny's is a modern Irish shop with Orla Kiely items we both wanted to spend our life savings on (and one thing would have cost it all). next we found O'Maille's and Anne, the shopkeeper was so friendly. She told us about all her knitters - the ladies in the area who knit for her. One is 87-years-old! So a purchase is like charity toward the elderly, right? We asked Anne about an antique shop we read about in the guides and she knew the owners - the Gallaghers-"lovely people". We stopped by the little cramped shop as an engaged couple was picking out an antique engagement ring. We almost died at the thought of how amazing an antique ring from Ireland would be for an engagement ring! We stopped by Rouge's for a bite but it was French. So we decided to skip it and went to the Quay's where we had the best Irish Stew and Seafood Chowder of our lives(Meagan's reaction to her Irish Stew: "Holy Smokes that's good!"). We thawed out for a bit and walked back to the Nile Lodge Inn. The key that Maura gave us is a skeleton key to open our room - this house is old. And super cold. But Marty warned us it would be and we're grateful for the advice. We're still sitting here wearing everything we brought with us. Maura left us a note and a warm peet fire in the fireplace at the foot of our bed. It doesn't get much better. God bless you!

It's like Christmas Eve...

Just finished the itinerary and I'm so excited I can't stand it!

Now how many guide books can I cram into my carryon... well nevermind--the best advice I have gotten so far is to ditch the guide books and ask the locals! What great advice!

Tomorrow we will celebrate Grandma's birthday with Mass and cake and then hit the road to head straight to the airport for the beginning of a fantastic journey to the home of our ancestors and the land of a thousand hello's.

Tomorrow there will be Grandma's Goodbye!!

God bless you!